Want to dress up your windows on a budget? A fabric-covered cornice board is an easy, fast way to add texture and style to a room in just a few hours.
If you’re bored with bare windows, cornice boards bring a polished, finished look without the bulk of full draperies. They hide hardware, add architectural interest, and can be built at home with basic tools and inexpensive materials. Below is a straightforward guide to designing and building your own DIY cornice board, plus tips from a real laundry-room makeover.
I’ve been updating my 1990s laundry room for over a year and just finished a fabric-covered cornice board that made all the difference. The space already had paint and artwork, but it needed pattern and softness at the window. Because drapes would interfere with work in the room, a cornice was the ideal solution.
This is how the room looked when we moved in:
And here’s the room just before I started the cornice project—keep reading to see the finished result at the end.
What I’ve already completed in this laundry room:
- Installed peel-and-stick vinyl floor tiles
- Added beadboard and a chair rail
- Painted the walls in a neutral and a soft blue
- Moved the drying rack and cleaned up storage
- Added art and changed the light fixture
- Finished the fabric-covered cornice board
What are cornice boards?
Cornice boards are fixed, decorative window treatments mounted at the top of a window. They can be built from wood, plywood, or a combination of wood and fabric. Cornice designs range from simple rectangular boxes to curved or shaped profiles, allowing you to match the piece to the room’s style.
They’re often used to conceal curtain rods or blind hardware and provide a tidy, tailored finish. For DIYers, cornice boards are an excellent beginner project—affordable, quick, and highly effective.
Cornice board styles
You can make a cornice as plain or ornate as you like. Common styles include straight-box, scalloped, and shaped profiles like the Pennsylvania style I used. Choose a template that complements your decor, or design one of your own.
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Supplies needed
Here’s a basic list of what you’ll need to build a fabric-covered cornice board:
- Poster board or cardboard for a template
- Pencil and scissors
- 3/4″ plywood (or similar thickness) for the front panel
- 2x4s or wood strips for the sides and top (or cut from plywood)
- Medium-weight fabric (linen, canvas, or cotton blend works well)
- Poly-fil padding to soften the edges
- Staple gun and staples
- Drill and appropriate screws
- Saws: circular saw for straight cuts and jigsaw for curves
- Wood glue
- “L” brackets, corner braces and screws for assembly
- Optional: trim or cord for embellishment; a backing fabric for a clean back
Before you start
1. Measure your window
Measure across the window, including the casing, and add 4–6 inches so the cornice extends 2–3 inches beyond each side. Choose the height so the cornice covers the hardware but doesn’t overpower the room—the example here is about 19 inches tall.
These measurements will determine the size of the plywood sheet you’ll cut. A plywood thickness around 23/32″ provides a sturdy backing for brackets and screws.
2. Choose your fabric
Select a medium-weight fabric that’s not too stiff or too flimsy—linen, canvas, or a cotton/poly blend works best. Medium-weight fabrics drape well over the board without wrinkling or bulking up at the edges.
Once you have measurements, buy enough fabric and padding to wrap completely around the board with extra for stapling on the back.
How to build the cornice board
Follow these straightforward steps to create your cornice.
1. Create a template
Trace your chosen shape onto poster board or cardboard. For shaped designs, tape pieces together as needed and use round objects to form smooth curves. Cut out the template and refine the shape until you’re satisfied.
2. Cut the wood to size
Trace the template onto the plywood and cut the shape using a circular saw for straight lines and a jigsaw for curves. Take your time on the curves for a smooth finish.
3. Cut the side and top pieces
Cut side and top boards to match the height and depth you want. The depth determines how far the cornice will project from the wall. If you use a 2×4, it will sit about 3.5 inches out from the wall. Account for the thickness of the top piece when cutting side heights.
4. Assemble with braces
Join the front, top, and side pieces using corner braces and “L” brackets for extra support. Add wood glue at the joints for strength and allow it to cure before continuing.
5. Add padding
Cut poly-fil to cover the front and sides with extra to wrap to the back. Smooth and staple the padding in place, folding corners neatly. Trim excess so the fabric lays flat without bulking.
6. Center the fabric
Lay the fabric face down, center the assembled board over it, and confirm pattern alignment. Make small adjustments until the design sits exactly as you want on the front face.
7. Staple the fabric
Start stapling at the top center, pulling the fabric taut and working outward and down the sides. Make relief cuts where the profile curves inward, and wrap corners like a gift for a neat finish.
8. Add a back liner (optional)
If your window faces the street and the back will be visible, cut a backing from poster board or thin plywood, wrap it in neutral fabric, and glue or staple it to the back for a finished look.
9. Mount the cornice
You have two practical mounting options:
- Fasten “L” brackets to the wall, set the cornice on top, and screw up into the bottom of the cornice from underneath.
- Attach D-rings to the back of the cornice and hang it on wall screws or picture hooks like a framed artwork.
I used L-brackets, but I recommend D-rings for easier hanging and adjustments—especially when the space between the cornice and the wall is tight.
The final result is rewarding—you’ll get a tailored, custom look for far less than store-bought options. The cornice I made instantly elevated the laundry room and added the pattern and polish the space needed.
Final thoughts
Cornice boards are inexpensive, fast to build, and make a big visual impact. They’re perfect when curtains aren’t practical but you still want a finished window look. I’ll definitely make more for other rooms—each one can be customized by fabric, shape, and trim to suit any décor.
With basic tools, a little planning, and a few hours, you can create a polished cornice board that looks professionally made and adds personality to any room.